Suffering for Fashion: A Nordic Selection in Skaugumvigølten

During my travels in northern Norway, I discovered the Eskilmo reservation in Jotunheimen county (more than an hour and a half by bus north of the Arctic Circle). Despite being in one of the hinterlands, I was pleased to learn the restaurant had been doing business there for more than 35 years.

Honeycomb is the big seller, but there are lots of others, such as lamb tartare, salmon salad, and pickled herring. The salmon plate is served with a beautiful nest of julienne vegetables wrapped in a crisp pancake called a seaton. Speaking of the Nordic cuisine, there are the classic smoked salmon discs with dollops of cream and a spoonful of sour cream, but it is the larger slice of fresh salmon baked on top of a bed of chestnut puff pastry that is a real show-stopper. Everything else is cooked on Icelander toast made on the same yeast and sugar rising technique.

The other thing to know is that this place is very family oriented. Many locals live here on farms near the reservation — you can feel the sensitivity when you watch them working over a fire.

As Norway likes to remind us: The country has a high quality of life. Get there before your supplies run out and you’ll have something truly special to show off to those back home.


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